Tin Can Vape Mod DIY!
-Longer battery life then vape pens.
-Save your 510 threads, not used to charge.
-Faster charging, 1A charging board.
-Charge anywhere with a phone charge cord.
-LCD Voltage readout, know your battery level.
-It's an Art Piece.
-You made it!
These are all things I built for myself and my own use. If you build anything from this website, do so at your own risk.
Lithium-ion batteries are dangerous and can explode if anything is done wrong.

Tin Can Vape Mod Box (Prototype 2):

The mod below is not safe to make!

Please do not re-create what you see here!

Click here to see a safe mod!

Prototype 2 Features:
-USB Rechargeable
-LCD Voltage readings
-510 vape connector (Adapter sold for people the bad threads)
-18650 battery

I reused Prototype 1 parts, removed all  the components (but the LCD and 510) to prep for rebuild. I wanted to rebuild it because the Variable voltage did not work, and I wanted a cleaner design.

recycle altoids boxes

I started with the USB charging board and the Battery. Then soldered the wires.
I was able to use much less wiring because I used the Altoids case as the ground for everything.
The LCD screen had 3 wires, I combined the Voltage and Sense wires for 1 positve connection.
I had to remove one of the switches because it was for the Variable voltage.

Altoids vape clean layout, simple design

This is my test battery. I use it only for my initial testing. I have a nice Panasonic 3400mAh IMR battery for safety when I vape day to day.

After Prototype 1, I made a few upgrades. I changed the salvaged 510 connector for a new 510 adapter. I had to use a washer to adapt the size difference. Everything was soldered together. The case is ground.
altoids 510 connection

Here is the USB charging port. I have the older USB port, but all the new charging boards have the new Micro USB ports.
I cut the square wider then the USB port, and added hot glue so you can see the charge lights from the window. The charge indicators: Red=charging, Green=Good to vape!
Altoids USB charging port

After having to remove all that hot glue. I decided to use much less this time. I made sure to secure the battery holder well and added some hot glue to cover the board so the LED lights can shine through the bottom window I made.
tin can vape complete

Here is a wiring diagram. vape schematic, wiring layout, design
The switch wires are swapped so the position of the switch will make sense.
Towards USB = batt power
Towards vape = vape.
center = off.

I should have used a 3034 Mosfet N-Channel 40V 195A TO-220 (PN: IRLB3034PBF).
A resistor across the 3034 - 15K ohms 1/4W.
And a resettable fuse for each battery positive terminal. (PN: PPTC77) Act Temp 15A Hold.

The 3034 will allow a weaker button to activate the vape without melting the button contacts (if using too many watts from the coil).
The resettable fuses will prevent any issues and will turn back on after everything is ok.

Vape making Safety devices - protect over watt, under ohm mods
The black box things on top are the IRLB3034PBF.
The white little boxes under are the PPTC77 Resettable fuses.

Here is an updated wiring diagram I made.

A few notes about this vape design:

We recommend 2.0 - 2.5 Ohm coils for this. Battery output averages 4.1v to 3.6v.

Do not use the unit while the battery is charging from USB.
If you have a second battery, you can swap them out and use a 18650 wall charger.
Battery compartment is for nipple/button top batteries.
We recommended use of IMR or protected batteries.

Please consider making a donation towards Vape Research.