Tin Can Vape Mod DIY!
-Longer battery life then vape pens.
-Save your 510 threads, not used to charge.
-Faster charging, 1A charging board.
-Charge anywhere with a phone charge cord.
-LCD Voltage readout, know your battery level.
-It's an Art Piece.
-You made it!
Tin Can Vape Mod Box (Prototype 4):

The mod below is not safe to make!

Please do not re-create what you see here!

Click here to see a safe mod!

These are all things I built for myself and my own use. If you build anything from this website, do so at your own risk.
Lithium-ion batteries are dangerous and can explode if anything is done wrong.

Prototype 4 Features:
-USB Rechargeable
-LCD Voltage readings
-510 vape connector (Adapter sold for people the bad threads)
-18650 battery

Tools needed:
-Wire strippers.
-needle nose pliers, regular pliers.
-wire cutters.
-pick tool (or nail, etc).
-utility knife (or dremel, etc).
-wire (the right thickness).
-solder and soldering gun.
-Drill and drill bits.
-Hot glue gun and glue.
-optional: solder sucker.

I first lay out all the parts where I think I want them to do.
I make sure nothing will be in the way of anything else.

I poke little dents where I want to cut the back out for the USB charger and the LED charge lights to shine through.

I place the 510 connector on top, and scribe a circle into where I need to drill.
I poke a hole in the center of that as a drill bit guide.

I position the bush button where I want it and poke a dot where the top of the button hits.
I will drill under this.

I now get ready for the selection switch. I scribe a line where the left tab is that holes the cover closed.
I then close the case, and poke a hole in the center of the bottom to the lid lip.

I need to cut the tabs off the LCD screen for it to fit between the switch and button.

I am now using the dots I made earlier to poke holes through where I need to drill or cut
I get my utility knife and cut the hole for the USB and the LCD (both square holes)

Now its time for some drilling.
I get out the proper size bits to drill the hole for the switch.
I start out with a very small drill bit, and work my way up to the larger size hole.
I add some thread cutting oil to lube the drill bit. This makes them last much longer.

Now to drill the hole for the button.

And another hole for the 510 connector.
The hole is just right. I can even screw the 510 adapter in as if my tin was threaded.

I mounted the LCD into the hole, and added a layer of clear tape to hold the LCD in place

I add hot glue to hold the LCD in place.

I poke holes then screw the push button onto the case.

I cut the clear tape a little shorter, and left it there as a screen protector and to limit sharp edges.
So far we just got the front panel together... almost there. :-)

I solder the negative for the battery right to the case.

Now to solder on the 510 connector.
It takes a while to heat the large 510 metal, and very little heat on the tin to melt the same solder.
Try and heat the 510 connector with your soldering gun until solder sticks to it. Then add just a little solder to the tin, and bridge them together with solder. I then do the same thing on opposite sides, and keep adding until I covered all the way around

I now solder the ground from the LCD screen to the tin.
I check with my meter to make sure the switch position is correct, and solder the positive from the LCD to the switch.

Now on to the Power board.
I solder the positive from the battery to battery + on the board. I then solder the positive out from the board to the center pin of the switch.
I then solder one wire into both negative ports on the board and then solder that to the tin.
Then I put the board onto the double stick tape.

I now test the circuit. The green battery is fully charged, the blue LED lights up.
The purple battery is low and charging, the LED is red.

Here I check how accurate the LCD voltage meter is. Its more accurate then my SMOK vape meter.

I now add in hot glue to hold the battery compartment. I tilt the tin sideways to the glue stays in the corner by the battery.
I then add hot glue under the contacts for my button so nothing shorts out.
Then I add a layer of hot glue over the circuit board, both to prevent shorts, and to make the LED charge indicator shine through the USB port on the bottom.

Here is the finished vape! Its a beauty! I think I like the other push button design better, but I like how slim this is. This prototype took me about 3 hours to make.

This vape works great with my dripper.

Here is the wiring diagram.


I should have used a 3034 Mosfet N-Channel 40V 195A TO-220 (PN: IRLB3034PBF).
A resistor across the 3034 - 15K ohms 1/4W.
And a resettable fuse for each battery positive terminal. (PN: PPTC77) Act Temp 15A Hold.

The 3034 will allow a weaker button to activate the vape without melting the button contacts (if using too many watts from the coil).
The resettable fuses will prevent any issues and will turn back on after everything is ok.

Vape making Safety devices - protect over watt, under ohm mods
The black box things on top are the IRLB3034PBF.
The white little boxes under are the PPTC77 Resettable fuses.

Here is an updated wiring diagram I made.

A few notes about this vape design:

We recommend 2.0 - 2.5 Ohm coils for this. Battery output averages 4.1v to 3.6v.

Do not use the unit while the battery is charging from USB.
If you have a second battery, you can swap them out and use a 18650 wall charger.
Battery compartment is for nipple/button top batteries.
We recommended use of IMR or protected batteries.

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