Tin Can Vape Mod DIY!
-Longer battery life then vape pens.
-Save your 510 threads, not used to charge.
-Faster charging, 1A charging board.
-Charge anywhere with a phone charge cord.
-LCD Voltage readout, know your battery level.
-It's an Art Piece.
-You made it!
Tin Can Vape Mod Box (Prototype 5):

The mod below is not safe to make!

Please do not re-create what you see here!

Click here to see a safe mod!

These are all things I built for myself and my own use. If you build anything from this website, do so at your own risk.
Lithium-ion batteries are dangerous and can explode if anything is done wrong.

Prototype 5 Features:
The simplest vape yet!
-510 vape connector (Adapter sold for people the bad threads)
-18650 battery

Tools needed:
-Wire strippers.
-needle nose pliers, regular pliers.
-wire cutters.
-pick tool (or nail, etc).
-utility knife (or dremel, etc).
-wire (the right thickness).
-solder and soldering gun.
-Drill and drill bits.
-Hot glue gun and glue.
-optional: solder sucker.

I first lay out all the parts where I think I want them to go.
I start by picking where I want the 510 connector, then the switch and battery.

I poke little holes where I want to drill holes for the 510.

I then place the switch where I want it.
I poke a hole in the center of that as a drill bit guide.

These are the holes I poked through, where I will be drilling the holes.

I remove the button cap, lock washer and nut from the switch.

Now I get out my drill bits.

I pick out a drill but that's slightly smaller then the threads of the button and 510.

Its best to drill from a smaller bit, and work your way up to the larger size.
The biggest bit is for both the 510 and switch, I lucked out and they are the same size.

The button and 510 screw right in and hold their own weight. Perfect size holes.

Now I put the lock washer and nut on the button and tighten it down with pliers.

I do not like the button sticking out so far...

I used my flush cutters and snipped off the button top. If its rough, I can use sand paper or a file.

Looking good so far.

I next solder the 510 connector on.
I start with heating the 510, and applying little spots of solder around the 510.
Its best to heat the largest object first, the tin is thin and easy to heat.
I then applied solder to the tin side in little spots and dragged the solder from the 510 to the tin.
I repeated all around as I filled it in.

Now to beef up this 18650 battery holder. The wires are way too thin for what I want.

This will be the negative.

I tried to get the most power transfer out of the thick wire, using that little hole in the holder and from contact outside.

It was interesting stripping the other size.

I flatten out the wire to bond more ground to the tin.

I needed to remove the original thin wires, so I pull them through to the inside.

Then I snip the wires off as close as I can get to them.

Now there's no wires!

Time to solder in the negative wire.

I start with the tip of the wire inside the battery holder.
Then I apply solder to the outside ring.

Now on to the positive on the battery holder.

I start by flattening the wire on the inside ring of the battery holder.
After soldering, it should make a good bond, and harder to pull the wire through.

I solder both sides, starting on the inside, then adding a little from the outside.

I now connect the positive wire from the 510 to the button.
Such a good fit, it holds up on its own. Easy to solder.

Now to put the battery holder into the case.

I solder the flattened negative wire to the case, and solder the positive wire from the battery to the button.

I next check everything with a meter.
I do not want any shorts, The 18650 battery is Lithium-ion, and is powerful chemical mix and I do not want it to explode.

I also double check all my own solder connections to make sure there is good electrical connectivity.

The cover closes, and it looks great.

Now to add a little hot glue to the battery holder, and a few wires (in case they break loose).

There is even enough room for a bottle of e-juice!
This model does require you to remove the battery and charge it in a 18650 charger.
But I'm ok with that, I have a few batteries.
This vape took me about an hour and a half to make.

This is my test battery. I use it only for my initial testing. I have a nice Panasonic 3400mAh IMR battery for safety when I vape day to day.

Here is a wiring diagram I made.

I tested the unit with a 1 ohm coil and the resistance is too low, the hits were too quick and harsh.
1.8 to 2.2 ohms works great.


I should have used a 3034 Mosfet N-Channel 40V 195A TO-220 (PN: IRLB3034PBF).
A resistor across the 3034 - 15K ohms 1/4W.
And a resettable fuse for each battery positive terminal. (PN: PPTC77) Act Temp 15A Hold.

The 3034 will allow a weaker button to activate the vape without melting the button contacts (if using too many watts from the coil).
The resettable fuses will prevent any issues and will turn back on after everything is ok.

Vape making Safety devices - protect over watt, under ohm mods
The black box things on top are the IRLB3034PBF.
The white little boxes under are the PPTC77 Resettable fuses.

Here is an updated wiring diagram I made.

A few notes about this vape design:

We recommend 2.0 - 2.5 Ohm coils for this. Battery output averages 4.1v to 3.6v.

Battery compartment is for nipple/button top batteries.
We recommended use of IMR or protected batteries.

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