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Tin Can Vape Mod DIY!
Benefits:
-Longer battery life then vape pens.
-Save your 510 threads, not used to charge.
-Faster charging, 1A charging board.
-Charge anywhere with a phone charge cord.
-LCD Voltage readout, know your battery level.
-It's an Art Piece.
-You made it!
Tin Can Vape Mod Box (Prototype 6):
These are all things I built for myself and my own use. If you build anything from this website, do so at your own risk.
Lithium-ion batteries are dangerous and can explode if anything is done wrong.


Prototype 6 Features:
The safest vape yet! (That I have made)
-USB Rechargeable
-LCD Voltage readings
-510 vape connector (Adapter sold for people the bad threads)
-18650 battery

Added Safety Features:
-3034 Mosfet - IRLB3034PBF (This is what switches the high current on/off for the coil)
-15K Ohm 1/4 or 1/2W resistor (for 3034)
-Resetable fuse - PPTC77 ACT Temp 15A Hold.



Parts needed:
-Tin can
-18650 battery (high amp and protected)
-18650 battery holder
-toggle switch (on-off-on)
-push button (push to activate)
-510 connector
-LCD voltage readout
-18650 usb charging board
-double stick tape (Thick to prevent short outs)
-resistor (15K ohm 1/4 or 1/2W)
-Resetable fuse - PPTC77 ACT Temp 15A Hold.
-3034 Mosfet - IRLB3034PBF
-Some wire

Tools needed:
-Wire strippers.
-needle nose pliers, regular pliers.
-wire cutters.
-pick tool (or nail, etc).
-meter.
-utility knife (or dremel, etc).
-wire (the right thickness).
-solder and soldering gun.
-Drill and drill bits.
-Hot glue gun and glue.
-Heat shrink and lighter.
-optional: solder sucker.



I first lay out all the parts where I think I want them to go.
I start by picking where I want the 510 connector, then the switch, button and LCD.
I poke little holes where I want to drill holes for the 510.



I use a knife blade to cut the square holes for the charger USB and the LCD screen.



Now to drill the proper sized holes for the 510, the switch and the button.



Holes are now all made.



I cut the positive wire to add a fuse.



The fuse soldered right into place.



I added a heat shrink to prevent shorts.



Now it is time to attach the 510 to the tin can.


I hold it on with pliers and solder it from the inside.
It takes a while to get the 510 hot, but the tin can gets hot instantly.
Start with the 510 first. Then bridge the solder to the tin can.



It sits nice and flat, and the case closes.



Now I install the switch and the button.






Now I added the LCD screen in.



As of now, the LCD is held in place by the metal hole I cut.



Time to get the hot glue gun warmed up.



I start with the battery socket.



I add the glue only into the 2 ends, where the positive and negative wires come out.
I slant the tin can at an angle, so the glue makes a triangle and does not spill anywhere.



After that glue dries, I added some around the LCD screen to hold it in place.



Now the easy part, put the double stick tape in for the charger board.



I place it touching the battery holder and the metal by the charge port.



The wires to the LCD screen are now cut to size.



(Wiring diagram at bottom of page)
The positive wire from the LCD goes to the Left contact on the switch.
I connect the negative and another wire to the -Negative Out- on the charger board.
I also soldered the Battery negative to the -Battery Negative- on the charger board.



Then I soldered the Battery positive to the -Battery Positive- on the charger board.
And also another wire to the -Positive Out- on the charger board.



The wire I soldered onto the -Positive Out- goes to the 510 center post for Positive power!



I also ran a small wire from the 510 to the push button.



Now I added a wire from the button to the center post of the toggle switch.



I wrapped a 15K ohm resistor over the top of the 3034 mosfet, then connected it to the Gate and Source pins of the 3034



I added a little solder to keep it together and a good connection.



I bent the center pin down flat, and the 2 outer pins up.



This is from another angle.



I soldered just a drop on the top tab to hold it in place, then I soldered the center pin (Drain) to the tin can.
I soldered the Left Gate pin to a wire going to the right pin on the toggle switch.
Then soldered the right Source pin to the negative wire from the charger board.



This is another angle



Now for a bit more hot glue. (Prevent electrical shorts that may lead to possible battery explosion)



I cover all my solder points and all the circuit boards. An added bonus of covering the charger board it the light will glow through the hot glue and show the charging status through the usb charging port.


I use some clear tape and cover the LCD. This prevents scratches like a screen protector.



This also makes a nice flat smooth front. (if the metal is cut properly)



This is how it looks after the glue dries.



Time to give it a test. This is my Panasonic 3400mAh IMR battery.


So far so good, the LCD displays the voltage.



The charger is working. The LED is red when charging.



Its a bright LED!



And when charged it turns blue.



You can also see it from the charging port.



This vape took me about two hours to make.



Here is a wiring diagram I made.



I tested the unit with a 1.8 ohm coil, and it worked great.
I wanted to do a safety test, I used a 0.5 ohm coil and the resistance being too low, the fuse activated.
1.8 to 2.2 ohms works great.





A few notes about this vape design:

We recommend 1.8 - 2.5 Ohm coils for this. Battery output averages 4.1v to 3.6v.

Warning:
Battery compartment is for nipple/button top batteries.
We recommended use of IMR or protected batteries.



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